Highway 5 is a lovely drive, up and down the hills and mountains alongside the North Thompson River for about 90 minutes. It gets progressively dryer and more barren as you get further south, so by the time you reach the city, it’s almost desert-like. There is still a fair amount of vegetation but it is largely scrub, sage and prairie grasses, with very few of the enormous pine and spruce trees up in Wells Gray, where we still hoped to camp eventually.
As in Clearwater, the staff at Kal Tire in Kamloops were a delight to deal with, and had our tire fixed and mounted in maybe 45 minutes. I think the most time was spent finding it. We even toyed with getting an extra spare when Keegan discovered the right-sized wheel in their inventory, but it turned out to have only four holes, not the five we needed, so the spare spare notion was abandoned.
With a fresh new trailer tire loaded in the back of the Lander, we only had two more stops to make in Kamloops and the first was at Princess Auto.
My satisfaction at this experience bordered on the spiritual.
First, it was deliciously air conditioned, in direct contrast to the heat outside which I recall as being around 36 degrees.
Their immense inventory, even the fiddly bits like the individual socket I required, were all clearly labelled and neatly organized.
And once again, friendly, helpful staff were easy deal with and were only too willing to let me open a saddle adapter to see if it fit the 2-ton bottle jack I was contemplating (it did not).
It did not take us too long to get sorted, and within perhaps 15 minutes we left with the aforementioned hydraulic jack, which I figured might work better in the close quarters under our trailer, as well as an 18” breaker bar, a 3/4” inch socket for the trailer’s lug nuts, a 6” extender for that socket, and some “Screwloose” penetrating spray for loosening the nuts.
Our second stop was at the T’Kemlups Petro-Can for some more ice for our beleaguered cooler as well as some enormous slushy drinks. I swear I have never enjoyed one of these more; it was just so hot.
Before we even returned to the Country Inn RV Park, we knew we wouldn’t have enough time to strike camp and make it to Mahood Lake, especially using the route taking us an hour south to avoid as much of the notorious F.S.R. as possible. So we heated up some chicken chili, packed up what we could before bedding down, and slept with hopes of an early departure.
Packing up went pretty well the next day, and to save time we again grabbed some breakfast sandwiches (and still more ice) and headed out once more the Hwy 5 south.
And not ten minutes south of Clearwater, the other trailer tire blew out.
It signaled its departure from this mortal coil with an immense POP, followed by the slapping of shredded rubber against the asphalt. It was the starboard-side tire this time, so I was able to pull over safely to the side of the highway, and after a few moments of reflection as to whether we were cursed by the Almighty or had angered some powerful folk-magician in our travels, I got out to take a look.
And yes, looking at my second trailer flat in less than 24 hours, I experienced my share of disappointment and despair, especially when looking at the inexplicable two inches of additional fairing on the this side of the trailer (see picture), which would make this extraction even more difficult than the first one.
But I was also heartened, because this time, thanks to advice, experience, and our loyal Princess of Autos, I was prepared!
I quickly unpackaged the bottle jack, marveling at is tidiness and realized something I hadn’t noticed when checking it for the adapter I had considered: there was no handle in the box.
There should have been a two-part jack handle, but there wasn’t even one. Blessedly though, the socket for the jack could also accommodate a long-handled screwdriver or even the extender I had bought for the breaker bar.
I quickly tested my hypothesis, but remembered before getting too far that I must loosen the nuts before lifting the wheel. I got the breaker bar out, moved the extender from the jack to the socket and put the whole works together. Only a bit of the spray was needed to loosen them and that didn’t take nearly as long as the first time around.
And when I got the bottle jack to an appropriate spot on the frame, it lifted up easily enough even using my improvised handle, and there was just enough room to work off the spare and squeeze it under the lip of the trailer.
But when I tried to put the fully inflated spare into place, it became very apparent that so long as it was full of air and a larger diameter than the flat, there was absolutely no way I could even force it into position.
Despite the bottle jack’s ease of use while crouched under a listing tent trailer, its maximum lift of 7&¼” meant that there was not a single place under the trailer where it could elevate it to a sufficient degree. Standing the jack on the block we used for the nose of the trailer would potentially raise it an extra 4” but put it above the frame and metal pieces of the trailer, and there was no way the aged wood of our 1974 Bonair would support the weight on the jack surface that perhaps an inch across.
It was about this time that I felt burning pinch on my right wrist, and jerked my arm up to discover a red ant with its mandibles sunk into my flesh. After brushing it off and noticing more ants upon my person, I rolled over and discovered I had indeed situated myself directly upon an anthill. I mean, why not? At this point the circumstantial evidence supporting an angry witch was becoming overwhelming anyways.
Once again, I began to despair, and once again, Audrey came to the rescue. “What about the scissor jack from the Lander?”
I shook my head in frustration. “Even with more lift, it starts out too flat to give the trailer enough clearance.”
”Yeah, but it would fit better on the block, wouldn’t it?”
I blinked and squinted at the shadows under the trailer. She was, of course, completely correct; the additional 4” from the trailer block made it a simple matter to fit the scissor jack under the frame, and also gave more room to put the windlass-like jack handle to work. There was soon more than enough room to fit on the spare, finger tighten the nuts, lower the jack and tighten everything back up.
It did take us long enough that a friendly driver stopped to make sure we were okay, having passed us on his way out of town and seeing us in the same spot upon his return, and another compassionate soul asked if we needed help as well.
But we were able to return ourselves to the road all by ourselves and were soon headed back to Kamloops for the second time in 24 hours.
We weren’t going to make it to Mahood Lake by nightfall again, but when I called the reservation line, they confirmed my suspicion - after our being a no-show, our entire 4-night reservation had been cancelled anyways.
There was enough coverage along Hwy 5 for me to use Audrey’s data and book us a site at Blue River, maybe an hour north of Clearwater and as far as we could get along our homeward route and still cook dinner.
When I walked into the Kamloops Kal Tire with the flat, one of the techs from the day before gawked his eyes and said, “There is no way that blew already!”
I agreed and informed him it was the other, and as he took it back to get replaced, he assured us we should be good to go in 15-20 minutes.
As they worked on it, I reflected on the rotten luck of a second flat so soon after the first and realized it probably wasn’t luck after all - there was no chance that the starboard tire didn’t take some degree of damage during our initial highball run up the FSR. In retrospect, we were probably lucky to have gotten as far as we did! And I still could not recall wronging any houngans or brujas or warlocks at any rate.
Once the tire was fixed, our tech not only mounted it onto the spare bracket for us, he also retorqued the tire I had just replaced. We had many miles yet to go before nightfall.
Next stop was at Princess Auto to swap out the handle-less bottle jack for a dedicated scissor jack that would live in the Bride of Frankentrailer so that our next flat wouldn’t requiring unpacking so much of the Lander, since that one is stowed under the cargo area.
And once again, the heat of the day required slushy drinks to progress, so we stopped once more at T’Kemlups Petro Can and this time got some hot chicken for lunch, which, for gas station chicken? Was pretty decent.
We also drove around the area a little bit and found an immense and beautiful powwow centre, as well as Canada’s most notorious residential school, where they first discovered 215 unmarked graves of Indigenous students - a heady reflection on vacation, but we both think we will return for a tour at some point in the future.
The rest of the drive passed without incident, thank heavens! At one point, while we were driving up the side of a mountain perhaps two or three hundred feet higher than the river, Audrey spotted a bald eagle flying alongside us. When I turned my head, I didn’t even have to look up - the enormous avian was at eye level, thirty feet away from my window and perhaps 20 feet from the cliff side, gently flapping alongside us as we drew past him at 70 km/h. Amazing!
The private campground at Blue River was closer to the highway and train crossing than we might like, but was very well kept and tidy. After a Wednesday night dinner of grilled pork chops and cacio e pepe pasta (from ramen style cups), we were finally beginning to relax for the very first time since leaving on Monday.
After two flats, two tire replacements, being stranded in remote areas, spending six hours on the road between Clearwater and Kamloops without actually getting anywhere, nibbled by ants, and enduring a diet one meal short of being exclusively fast food and road snax, we finally, actually felt like we were on vacation.
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